E85Forum.com Fueling the E85 community    FAQ   Search   Memberlist   Usergroups   Register   Profile   Log in to check your private messages   Log in  Tuning a 750 holley........ Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next          E85Forum.com Forum Index -> open forum on E85 ethanol fuel View previous topic :: View next topic   Author Message 89shortbox Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 153 Location: Michigan Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:14 pm    Post subject: I have a hard time believing your running the bowl dry when you have just the primaries using fuel right now so the fuel system should be able to keep up. Everytime I ran bowls dry the motor dead flat quit weather are i was WOT or idle. Im gonna say your idle circuit is way too lean and thats why it tries to die on you when you let off the throttle. Have you done any changes to your IFR and IABs . _________________ ---------------------- 89 S10 406 SBC Twin Turbo BT Going E85 this coming season HAHA, the season is alreay gone to another season. Back to top Speedy8311 Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 22 Location: Long Island,NY Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:48 pm    Post subject: whats ifr? I know the idle air bleeds and the high speed air bleeds are still the same.Just so everyone knows I am running a stock 750 center section,and stock 750 metering blocks.The only things that I did was drill out the main wells the pcvr's and the main pass to discharge nozzle's.I did this on the front and rear blocks.I have not touched the air bleeds becouse I do not know how to put the screw in air bleeds yet.Also the emultion holes in the metering blocks are stock.They are not as big as they seem,that big hole gets very small at the bottom. I'm 99 percent sure that I'm running the front bowl dry,becouse it idles fine,if I goose it twice(5500-6000 rpm) it comes down and trys to stall.I have to feather the gas to keep it running then it bounces back.By me feathering the gas I'm using the acc pump to give it fuel to cover until the bowl gets fuel. In the upcoming weeks I will be changing my fuel pump to a Mallory 140 that I have.I'm just waiting on a set of brush's to show up from Summit. Back to top Drag Chevette Joined: 18 Sep 2007 Posts: 458 Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 7:48 pm    Post subject: ok, im going to walk you through this because i want you to be able to run E85. below will be a picture to help you find the ports you may be looking for. Speedy8311 wrote: whats ifr? idle feed restrictor (#25 in pic) - it determines the amount of fuel getting into the idle well of the metering block and is used to set the idle flow as well as transition flow. Quote: I know the idle air bleeds and the high speed air bleeds are still the same. this will make your car run lean, real lean, the air bleeds MUST be changed I would start with a .065 idle air bleed OUTER 4 BLEEDS, and a .028 high speed air bleed INNER 4 BLEEDS next to the vent tube. I swap these out when i swap boosters..... Quote: Just so everyone knows I am running a stock 750 center section,and stock 750 metering blocks. when i do my conversions this is what i typically start with as well. Quote: The only things that I did was drill out the main wells the pcvr's and the main pass to discharge nozzle's. the main well specs that you gave are a bit to the large side but can work, the exit channel (main pass) goes to the BOOSTER and is an excellent starting point....good choice there. Ace Hardware sells numbered bits...I suggest you go with a #47 bit to start with and move to a #46 if needed. Quote: I did this on the front and rear blocks. good, as both ends of the carb need increased flow. Quote: I have not touched the air bleeds becouse I do not know how to put the screw in air bleeds yet. 10-32 tap drill previously by a #21 drill bit.....some machining may be required ....I get $100 to do the booster/air bleed swap....might be money well spent. Quote: Also the emultion holes in the metering blocks are stock.They are not as big as they seem,that big hole gets very small at the bottom. the small holes are more than likely .028-.031, and should be close enough to get you in the park.....i prefer .026-.028, but shouldnt make much difference in an 11 second ride. Quote: I'm 99 percent sure that I'm running the front bowl dry,becouse it idles fine,if I goose it twice(5500-6000 rpm) it comes down and trys to stall. your way LEAN....and as long as your IFR is small and the idle air bleed (AIB) is so big you will run lean. you can do what you want to it , but until you fix these issues it will continue to act this way. Quote: I have to feather the gas to keep it running then it bounces back.By me feathering the gas I'm using the acc pump to give it fuel to cover until the bowl gets fuel. no, your acc pump is feeding the intake the fuel it wants until the A/F ratio is fat enough that it will run. Quote: In the upcoming weeks I will be changing my fuel pump to a Mallory 140 that I have.I'm just waiting on a set of brush's to show up from Summit. good choice.... here is where you need to be.....if you do not understand, ask and we will help you figure it out.... if your going to run E85 you cannot half way do the carb, your going to have to commit to doing it or take it back to gas...... I will suggest the following as a STARTING POINT.... completely take it to these specs and tune from there.....you got close with the 83 jet but it still wasnt the 85 that i suggested. (my 1050 dominators sometimes use 97/107 jets) PMJ – 85 SMJ – 94 Power Valve – 4.5 Primary, blocked secondary PVCR -- .080 <-----important because of the jet spead above.(smaller and your lean) IFR .047 IAB -- .065 HSB -- .028 Booster -- .170 (your stock one is .160 or less) ( i swap these) anti-siphon -- .028 eholes -- . .028-.031 and should be 2 of them one at top and one in middle. Accel pumps are both 30cc (50cc is ok) pump cams -- Orange/ squirters -- .037-.042 (hollow screw) I dont care if it a 7 second ride or a 16 second ride, i know E85 and i know how to tune it....this 600 vacume secondary carb below left my shop and went on a S-10 truck running 11.30s....this carb put him down to a 11 flat, different tires put him in the 10s. sound and video quality is poor because it was done with a cell phone. good luck with your swap, and let us know how it goes. Back to top Speedy8311 Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 22 Location: Long Island,NY Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 9:58 pm    Post subject: ok.....I will do exact to the "t".....but I have a few questions....first....the idle feed restrictions in these particular blocks is none,their isn't any.2nd question...what is an E-hole? and what is anti siphon? I have heard these terms before but I don't know what they are. Back to top Drag Chevette Joined: 18 Sep 2007 Posts: 458 Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 11:24 pm    Post subject: Speedy8311 wrote: ok.....I will do exact to the "t".....but I have a few questions....first.... good....there is alot to learn, and questions are a good thing that help everyone to learn. i will do my best to explain everything as we go. Quote: the idle feed restrictions in these particular blocks is none,their isn't any. take a closer look at #25, there is a press in bleed there that is sometimes hard to see....this hole should be opened to .047 or a #56 (.0465) bit (a 3/64 bit = .046875,this will work as well) (they sometimes move this insert up to #6) do not drill deeper than 1/4" tape around the bit .25 from the end helps as a guide to stop the bit from going too deep. Quote: 2nd question...what is an E-hole? Emulsion hole.....#22 on the picture Quote: and what is anti siphon? anti siphon is another name for kill bleed....it is listed as the top emulsion on the picture #22, but really should be labeled differently as the bottom emulsions are typically at or below fuel level. the top kill bleed is used to help stop the fuel flow when the booster vacume stops. Quote: I have heard these terms before but I don't know what they are. not a problem.....thats why I am here on E85forum....to lend assistance and to help those that want to run carbureted E85 cars... if you need help swapping out the air bleeds and boosters let me know, the boosters require a special tool to properly swedge them into place. (I also take the casting line out of a dis-assembled main body venturi while i have the boosters out) $100 + S&H (send main body only).... Mark ~ 573 694-4088 Back to top Speedy8311 Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 22 Location: Long Island,NY Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:36 am    Post subject: One more question,Since I have a regular holley 750 and it does not have 4 corner idle,am I replacing all 4 idle air bleed's and all 4 high speed air bleeds? Back to top Drag Chevette Joined: 18 Sep 2007 Posts: 458 Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:06 pm    Post subject: Speedy8311 wrote: One more question,Since I have a regular holley 750 and it does not have 4 corner idle,am I replacing all 4 idle air bleed's and all 4 high speed air bleeds? you will need to replace all four of each, but as for the secondary side it will be trial and error to get the bleeds right. I typically machine and block the base plate to make it 4 corner idle as well....that way it has a better tuning curve and is easier to adjust. Back to top Speedy8311 Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 22 Location: Long Island,NY Posted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:51 pm    Post subject: Sorry for the million and one questions,but I have one or two more......I may have a old barry grant silver claw base plate that had 4 corner idle.....if I'm able to find it can I use it if I use another 750 primary metering block on the secondary side? Also I am doing this tomorrow,but I did get chance to do some measuring,the HSAB(on the inside) are already .028 can I leave them alone or do I have to change them anyway? I have a MIC and bought a pin drill set and one of the drills is .028 thats how I know. Back to top Drag Chevette Joined: 18 Sep 2007 Posts: 458 Posted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:34 pm    Post subject: Speedy8311 wrote: Sorry for the million and one questions,but I have one or two more..... if you dont ask, you dont learn. Quote: .I may have a old barry grant silver claw base plate that had 4 corner idle.....if I'm able to find it can I use it if I use another 750 primary metering block on the secondary side? the BG stuff works well for the conversion. as long as the passages line up...use your gasket to check both sides main body and base plate. Quote: Also I am doing this tomorrow,but I did get chance to do some measuring,the HSAB(on the inside) are already .028 can I leave them alone or do I have to change them anyway? if they are .028 then yes, you can leave them, but if it was a gas carb i really dont see them being a .028, maybe a .031 which would be too lean. Quote: I have a MIC and bought a pin drill set and one of the drills is .028 thats how I know. excellent tools, use the go/no-go method start small and work up to get the pins in...go until the next size dont fit, then go back and you have the bleed size. _________________ http://www.marksullense85carburetors.com Back to top Speedy8311 Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 22 Location: Long Island,NY Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:10 pm    Post subject: ok...the Conversion is done,IAB at .065 HSAB at .028,pcvr at .080,85 jets in front,94 in rear,4.5 power valve......went to test......simply amazing.....AMAZING.....it made alot more power more than with gasoline.It worked so well that the tranny on my car had enough and that was the end of the test run.1st,2nd.....done,I actually think the case cracked too dripping oil and all ya know.DC thank you very much for all your help,A message to anyone trying E85 LISTEN TO DC HE IS THE GURU!......I'll post more when the tranny is back in one piece ,again thanks DC!! Back to top Drag Chevette Joined: 18 Sep 2007 Posts: 458 Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:51 pm    Post subject: Speedy8311 wrote: ok...the Conversion is done,IAB at .065 HSAB at .028,pcvr at .080,85 jets in front,94 in rear,4.5 power valve......went to test......simply amazing.....AMAZING.....it made alot more power more than with gasoline.It worked so well that the tranny on my car had enough and that was the end of the test run.1st,2nd.....done,I actually think the case cracked too dripping oil and all ya know.DC thank you very much for all your help,A message to anyone trying E85 LISTEN TO DC HE IS THE GURU!......I'll post more when the tranny is back in one piece ,again thanks DC!! would you believe me if I told you there was more in it?....... when anyone ask, tell them that I helped you....feel free to give them my number. If they want to send me a carb I can get them set up as well. Back to top Alcohol Joined: 17 Apr 2007 Posts: 634 Location: Central Wisconsin Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:53 pm    Post subject: He is the man Speedy Now you need a tranny man Back to top Speedy8311 Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 22 Location: Long Island,NY Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:57 pm    Post subject: More in it?? really??? I will definatly pass the word on DC Back to top Drag Chevette Joined: 18 Sep 2007 Posts: 458 Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:54 pm    Post subject: Speedy8311 wrote: More in it?? really??? did you swap the boosters?....NO< then there is more in it.... remember I can do the booster swap when your ready! Quote: I will definatly pass the word on DC good, my business is based off of refferals, if your not happy with me then your not going to send customers my way.... sounds like your happy with me....that will be two new customers please?...lol congrats on getting it going.....glad I could be a part of it. Back to top Speedy8311 Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 22 Location: Long Island,NY Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 1:01 am    Post subject: Ok.....tranny is done thrashed all day monday.I have a question about tuning......I have only 2 problems...1st....from idle to go I guess....as I start to drive I'm only stepping on the gas slightly....I'm getting a sputtering,misfiring? I guess that what its called.It does it when the car is cold most of the time.After its hot,if I let it sit for about 10 minutes it doesn't do it.Then after 2-3 minuts of driving it starts doing it again.It that the water that the E85 soaks up? 2nd question....the secondary's are still lean when they arn't open all the way,its almost like someone turns them on at full throttle only,any idea's why thats still doin that?I dont' mind cause its not like I drive with the secondarys all day,and there used at full throttle anyway,I was just curious. 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